Monterosso, Cinque Terre

Monterosso, the northern most town is a seaside vacation spot. You get off of the train on the beach, then head through a brick arched tunnel back under the tracks to the town on the other side. You got to love the trains in Italy, it takes 2 1/2 hours to walk from Vernazza to Monterosso, the train takes 6 minutes, they flat out fly!

We had a beautiful lunch in a little Bistro tucked into a medieval storefront, Yvonne had tuna with olives, capers, tomatoes and drizzled with olive oil, she said was one of the best meals she had here.

Beautiful town, you can see why people come here to stay and enjoy the sea..

Vernazza, Cinque Terre

We found Vernazza to be the most charming of the five cities of Cinque Terre, its the fourth northern most City just below Monterosso. This is where our hike ended the day before coming over from Cornigilia. We took the train back there yesterday morning and sat in the Bistro with the yellow umbrella's having cappuhino's and watched the fisherman drag their boats down into the water and head out for the day.

Saying good bye to Torre del Tortuffo

Very sad to leave this place, we had a great time and filled every fantasy we had about Tuscany, thank you Barbara, Chef Franco & Paulo for a great time.

Cinque Terre day two

Yesterday we took the train to the farthest of the 5 towns that make up Cinque Terre with the intentions of hiking back to at least two of the towns before returning the rest of the way on the train. When we got on the train, we met a young (well, younger than us) couple who were from, of all places, Arvada CO. Small world! They were also planning on doing the hiking between towns. At the first town, we walked around, looked in some shops and decided to hit the trail. The walk between the first two towns was short, about a half hour and the trail followed the coastline so you got a beautiful view of the water while you walked. We stopped about midway at a small bar and restaurant and had bruscetta and octopus salad (weird, but refreshing and tasted unlike anything I've ever tasted.)

The walk from the second to third town was closed because the heavy rains from the night before had caused a landslide that closed the trail. So we took the train to the third town (45 min waiting for the train and then a 4 minute train ride). In order to get to the town, you had to climb a stairway with 365 steps! Thank God this was at sea level and not altitude or we'd still be on it. The sun had come out and the day was hot, hot, hot. I didn't have my hat (thank God I had my sunglasses). We refilled our water bottles and hit the trail to the 4th town. The guide at the trailhead said the walk would take about 1 1/2 hours. It took us two- we're old, and the trail wound up and down over the coastline with many steep ascents and descents. We were never so happy to see a town when we came around the last corner. After a stop at the pharmacy for Motrin (knees, backs and feet all a little sore) we went down to the marina and had a beer at the marina cafe, then dinner at a local trattoria where we had lots of different seafood.

Sardines- these are not your grandfather's sardines which you could smell from two rooms away and rolling in that stinky oil. These were fresh from the sea, lightly fried in flour, delicate and delicious. I'm definitely a convert.

Home on the train and then to bed- long, beautiful day!

Cinque Terre- Levanto

We arrived yesterday afternoon after a three hour drive from Arezzo- the road down to the seaside town was winding, narrow and full of switchbacks. We got passed many times by people whom I assume are the locals and know the road way better than we do. Once in town, it reminded me of Stone Harbor NJ- not the buildings, but the feel of it- this is a tourist town for seaside recreation. It took us a while to find the hotel- Garmin let us down and took us to the wrong address, but when we went back into town to ask at the tourist information booth, we saw a sign for our hotel. Up another steep narrow road (this is a two way street????) and had almost given up hope when we came upon the hotel at the top of the hill. Sweeping view of the mediterranian (or at least I think thats what I'm looking at). At night, to our right looking out over the water, you can see the lights of Portofino. Huge yachts go cruising by.

It rained all night and was pouring this morning. I would feel disappointed if I didn't know how desperately they need the water- they are in drought, like us. By 10:00 the rain has stopped and the sky is starting to clear- at lunch time we are going to take the train to the farthest Cinque Terre town and start hiking back- the last two towns are closest together and it is only a half hour hike between them. We will play it by ear as to how many towns we will hike between and take the train back when we are tired.

Tomorrow we will see the towns we miss today. Then on to Venice.

Random observations of Italy

Here's some of the things I've noticed:

1- Bread with dinner- bread is served plain. No butter, olive oil and vinegar or any other condiment. It's meant to accompany the meal, not be the meal,

2- language- Most Europeans speak 2, often three, sometimes 4 languages. While they are unfailingly polite, I believe they regard Americans as small children with learning disabilities.

3- Wine- it is a myth that all wine here is good. We've had some great wine, but I've been subjected to plonk, too.

4- driving- Italians are crazy, fast drivers. This is not a myth.

5-Toilets- they have two flush buttons. A large button for large flushes and a small button for small flushes. While utilitarian, I find this fascinating.

6- water- they never serve water from the tap (even though the local water is very good). It's either still or sparkling, always from a bottle.

7- Bedrooms-small, often cramped but impeccably clean..

8- Street signs- they suck

9- Cars- when a smart car starts to look like an SUV, you get the picture. Plus, the more expensive the car, the faster they drive.

10- flowers- they are everywhere. Since there is so little available land, especially in towns, pot gardens flourish. It is obvious that the locals take a lot of pride in the maintenance and upkeep of their little patio spreads,

11- tomatoes- OMG, they are delicious. I have seen mainly the heirloom type of tomato,this is the everyday variety.

12- eating schedule- breakfast around 10, lunch around 2, dinner starting at 8. This is normal here. Shops close around 3 for siesta until about 7. They stay open until about 11.

13- If I win the lottery, I'm moving here.

Cinque Terre

Yvonne and I had to sadly leave cooking school behind today and drive over to the Italian Riviera, the area we are in is called Cinque Terre, it means five towns of the land, they are five city's along the cliffs over looking the sea. Right now we are sitting on our balcony high above Lavarno over looking the Mediterranean, having a martini and listening to the bells in the church tower ringing in the town below.

Life over here just sucks, NOT! :)